Daggerboard Trunk Repairs

[RQuest]

I manage a boat rental facility on a small and shallow lake. The Sunfish we rent are constantly run aground and hit submerged obstacles. This has caused damaged to multiple daggerboard trunks and daggerboards alike. Currently I use Marine Tex to repair the damage, however this lasts only until the next stump or sandbar is hit. I've read on the forums about using tabs for the trunk area, velcro or even carpeting. Would tabs provide enough cushion to actually make a difference in stopping the daggerboards from cracking the trunk/repairs I've made? I'm looking for a way to prevent this as I've already had to repair a few boats this year, multiple times each. Thanks!

-Rick

 

[L&VW]

Unless you provide all-day rentals, a daggerboard leak may not be a problem for most of your "sailors". You could install a transom drain plug, and drain water out daily.

OTOH, a Barrington daggerboard has an angle that, if reversed, would help to pop it upwards when struck. You could probably cut a few inches off each board with that "pop-up" slant facing the obstructions, and not miss it. (On a small lake). Removing the tension spring might save you a few repairs, as wooden daggerboards tend to float upwards.

 

[RQuest]

Thanks for the advice. Some of the cracks are pretty major so a transom plug may not be enough. I will look into the Barrington daggerboard though.

-Rick

 

[signal charlie]

Hi
Do you repair from then inside also? You might think about puttin in an inspection port and adding an extra layer of fiberglass to the damaged areas. Also would be good to dry out the boats.

Adios
Kent

 

[RQuest]

I have repaired a few trunks with the Marine Tex on the outside. One already had an inspection port so that is the only one so far that I've repaired on both the inside and out. I believe it has held so far.

-Rick

 

[RQuest]

Is there such a thing as a trunk guard? Possibly a piece of metal or heavy plastic that could be attached to the inside of the trunk for protection? I could see how a thin piece of metal could potentially prevent further cracking if it could be installed correctly.

-Rick

 

[signal charlie]

Some people glue a thin strip of carpet in the fore and aft sections of the trunk, marine carpet maybe?

 

[RQuest]

I have looked into using the carpet however it would provide very minimal protection if the boat were to hit an obstacle at any speed.

-Rick

 

[minifish2]

I have looked into using the carpet however it would provide very minimal protection if the boat were to hit an obstacle at any speed.

-Rick

You probably want to get as much of a combination that a) cushions the schock, b) distributes the shock, and c) is designed so that if anything still fails it's the board and not the boat. If they were my rentals I would take Light and Variable's suggestions and address the board. I'd also cushion and reinforce the bottom aft of the trunk with a 1" by 2 or 3" section of heavy webbing, like a cutout piece of fire hose pasted in place with some 3m marine adhesive, our some similarly heavy webbing.

I would not necessarily go out and buy a bunch of 'new' Barrington boards to get smashed, but L and V's suggestion of angled ends with easier pop-up is pretty good. I would also use that suggestion of issuing shorter than standard boards.

Newer style (longer) boards are designed so the tip breaks more readily than the boat. That's too expensive but the idea of a more breakable board isn't bad if you can fabricate a bunch of cheap ones easy enough. For your existing boards I might consider experimenting carving out some of the board at the impact area and filling it with something that would compress like a couple inches of narrow hose, to further cushion impact.

Sounds like a good lake for paddle boats, kayaks, etc.

 

[RQuest]

Those are some good points, I like the idea of carving out the impact area and filling it with some kind of cushion. We do offer a few more boating options on the lake, but sailboats are one of the most popular.

 

[L&VW]

Hmmm. A quiet lake?

Depending on your frequency of impacts--or the frequency of capsizes--how about making a not-too-sturdy daggerboard from cardboard and epoxy?

 

[RQuest]

That is a possibility that I had not thought of. It just might be a bit too time consuming, we have 13 boats as of the end of the season.

 

[L&VW]

That is a possibility that I had not thought of. It just might be a bit too time consuming, we have 13 boats as of the end of the season.

Thirteen boats?

I got an idea for fixing multiple daggerboard trunks I've never tried it, so I don't know what I'm talking about!

Right side up, tape the entire base of the trunk. At the top of the trunk, pour in a quart of West® epoxy resin—properly mixed with a slow catalyst—plus some West® epoxy "beads". Draw a vacuum on the hull. Watch the level as it flows in. When a sufficient amount appears to have been drawn in, puncture the tape and recover the remainder of the epoxy mix. Then remove the tape entirely—allow the area to drain, wipe off the excess epoxy.

Move to the next, pre-taped, boat—repeat.

'Course, over time, the repairs could make such a sturdy trunk, your customers will be breaking daggerboards!

 

[L&VW]

I have looked into using the carpet however it would provide very minimal protection if the boat were to hit an obstacle at any speed.

-Rick

Another idea just popped into my head. Use a thin stainless steel cable clipped at one end to the bow handle, and the other [submerged] end attached to a ½-inch hole drilled at the tip of the daggerboard. The daggerboard could still be removed, as long as the bow handle clip was smaller than the inside of the daggerboard trunk. (Or use a small clip at each end). When the cable strikes an underwater obstacle—depending on the speed—the Sunfish will come to a stop (and/or capsize), or the board may simply pop up. The cable would not interfere with a proper beach landing.