Repairing Split Rudder

AQBill

AQBill

Active Member
My wooden (mahogany) rudder split into approximately equal fore and aft sections. Any particular advice or tricks that I should use to put this back together? I did notice that there were dowel rods through it but I was thinking of using WEST epoxy which should provide plenty of strength.

Thanks!
 
When the pieces are fresh-split, a perfect alignment seems easy. When you add even a small amount of epoxy, however, that desireable perfect alignment is much more difficult. No matter, you can expect it to break in the same place if stressed like previously. :(

There must be a stronger wood glue around but for marine applications, but I've been reading that Gorilla Glue "isn't it".

I really like working with West epoxy, and using it in this application (a rudder split down the middle) would be a quick/easy way to fix it. :) After it's cured, runs in epoxy resin can be difficult to clean up. You might use masking tape before starting and pull it off before the epoxy cures.

Give it a try, but remember to clamp the bleep out of it! :D
 
Repairing a split rudder is a GREAT thing to do. If you contact the Class Office, there is a Windward Leg reprint of how to put in 3 stainless screws or rods after the repair to make the blade almost bullet proof. It won't split again on its own accord. I have a friend who did it to his rudder about 15 years ago and he races. He's had plenty of collisions on the rudder and it's held firm. WEST epoxy is the best. Yes, clamp the living daylights out of it. Then put in the pins (they'll be epoxied in, too). Then refinish your blade. Enjoy many happy years thereafter! Some folks fill in the mounting holes on the rudder with epoxy when making the repair and redrill them to make them original size, too. That's your choice. A few have put in bushings so they won't wear down, but I put that at the anal retentive level.

If you're concerned about the split showing, you can simply paint the blade white. For racing, it doesn't matter, smooth finish is best!
 
The rudder can definitely be repaired in the manner everyone has described. I have put threaded rod (as described by Gail) into 4 rudders and wrapped the blades in fiberglass after. Those blades are virtually indestructible. However, the problem with strengthening the blade is that it moves the point of failure elsewhere. Now, when someone hits my blade, more often than not the torque breaks the plastic rudder cheek, and has also broken a few aluminum cheeks.
 
the problem with strengthening the blade is that it moves the point of failure elsewhere. Now, when someone hits my blade, more often than not the torque breaks the plastic rudder cheek, and has also broken a few aluminum cheeks.

So your arguement is that it's more desirable to have the blade fail than the cheeks? Ummmm - ok, if the blade continues to be repairable I can see that. Considering the wood blade is now no longer available that situation is soon to reverse its economy.

64113 Rudder, FRP Blade Only $212.00
66617 Rudder Cheek $63.60

I'm going to cross my fingers FRP blades are a combination of breakaway and easily fixable.

I wonder if the pieces will float?

.
 
Dan said:
So your arguement is that it's more desirable to have the blade fail than the cheeks?
Click to expand...

No. I definitely never said or intended to imply that it is more desirable to have the rudder blade fail. I simply wanted to point out that no solution is bullet proof, and what is right for one person may not be right for the next. Among other things, you need to consider your the time, cost, ability to make the repair etc.

Repairing a wooden blade is time consuming. Further, if you race, you run the risk of failing measurement at a regatta which will force you to borrow equipment, buy a new blade or sand for hours. I have had to do all of these and it really ruins the entire experience of being there.

So, despite the fact that I have successfully repaired several broken blades, if I had a broken wooden blade today and had to do it again, I would buy the LaserPerformance Fiberglass blade without hesitation. Those blades are as good, or close to as good as what you can do yourself. With the exception of one person who broke a VERY small portion of the tip off when they ran the blade over with a car, I have never seen anyone damage the new fiberglass blades. It is a quick and hassle free solution.
 
derekcjackson said:
No. I definitely never said or intended to imply that it is more desirable to have the rudder blade fail. I simply wanted to point out that no solution is bullet proof
Click to expand...

That was a great explanation of the pros and cons. Thanks for clarifying your point.
 
Good afternoon, I'm new to this forum and have been looking around for a drawing /specs for fabricating a new pre - 1972 rudder. Specifically, I'm looking for the dimensions and placement of the dowel. Thanks in advance- I've learned a lot of valuable info here
 
Sounds like something someone installed post factory. Looking at my old style rudder the only
holes are two for the grudgeon and one hole for the tiller. That's all you need.

If you have a clean rudder split any wood working glue like Tite-Bond works fine. Epoxy
also works. The difference is epoxy needs a gap and white glue does not. When you clamp
the parts together do not over tighten so that you don't squeeze all to white glue out. If
that parts don't match up well do to a bad break, try epoxy and micro-balloons. I've filled
large gaps/splits in my oars with this method

Hint- use a brass bushing for the tiller bolt holes. The lack of such is what causes most
rudders to split. I use one for the tiller, one for the grudgeon and one on the tiller extension
bolt. I'm pretty sure I'll never have a remote chance of wearing them out.
 
Webfoot1 said:
Hint- use a brass bushing for the tiller bolt holes. The lack of such is what causes most
rudders to split. I use one for the tiller, one for the grudgeon and one on the tiller extension
bolt. I'm pretty sure I'll never have a remote chance of wearing them out.
Click to expand...
Received as a gift, my Nicro Marine tiller extension provides a bushing with a recessed quick-release locking pin.

Photos 322017 71356 PM.bmp.jpg
 
Webfoot1 said:
Sounds like something someone installed post factory. Looking at my old style rudder the only
holes are two for the grudgeon and one hole for the tiller. That's all you need.

If you have a clean rudder split any wood working glue like Tite-Bond works fine. Epoxy
also works. The difference is epoxy needs a gap and white glue does not. When you clamp
the parts together do not over tighten so that you don't squeeze all to white glue out. If
that parts don't match up well do to a bad break, try epoxy and micro-balloons. I've filled
large gaps/splits in my oars with this method

Hint- use a brass bushing for the tiller bolt holes. The lack of such is what causes most
rudders to split. I use one for the tiller, one for the grudgeon and one on the tiller extension
bolt. I'm pretty sure I'll never have a remote chance of wearing them out.
Click to expand...
Get info - thanks I will follow your advice.
 
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