Removed screw and the backing block fell off...

pseudo15prt

New Member
And before you all say "I told you so," I'll pre-empt you: yes you did! Unfortunetely I didn't read those hints until after I did it.

Background: last year I purchased a beat-up old sunfish (and posted here for help in getting its value! - Thanks!), and promptly turned it upside down to fix the hull up. Before I did so I removed all the hardware on the top. I later found out that you aren't supposed to remove all the hardware at once and worried what would happen when I turned the hull back over. Well, I finally did so and could HEAR the block rattling around. I believe they are all intact except for one side of the bridle eye-pad. Any suggestions about hardware to attach the bridle without cutting in an inspection port to install a new backer block?

Thanks!
 
There might be one easy fix. Get a long (5" +), skinny wood screw. Insert it through one of the existing holes and gently probe for the back-up plate. If you find it, use the skinny screw to bring the plate back up flush with the underside of the deck and see if you can get one of the old screws to bite into the place. It is (very) long shot, but worth a try.

Alan Glos
Cazenovia, NY
 
If the above doesn't work, the next best step is to install an inspection port—especially handy for well-used Sunfish for drying-out. Note: I haven't needed to do this to an actual Sunfish, but experience with my Porpoise II "clonefish" alerted me to the essential importance of the port's actual physical location. Other boats I've worked on had sharp and pointed fiberglass "edges" that you want to avoid. (Move gently).

After checking for hidden foam blocks (found in Sunfish assembly cutaways on this forum), mark a line in the rear deck's centerline that allows easy access to both bridle eye-pads. To locate the center of your port, put your elbow on the line that allows a "full-custom" forearm reach from elbow to hand. (You don't want to be fumbling at the new block at fingertip-length or calling for help from a neighbor's kid :oops:).

The replacement block can be made of wood, but aluminum or stainless steel is a sure fix when it's bonded in place with sealer. Use the existing pad-eyes as a template to pre-drill the backing plate, and check for fit with the replacement screws or bolts.

It's too big for the bridle area, but if you need a backing plate elsewhere on your Sunfish, order a "universal" stainless backing plate:
http://www.suncorstainless.com/universal-back-plate

Stainless steel is tough to drill, cut, and bend, but it can be ground with bench grinder or Dremel tool to speed things up. The above link also sells "blank" backing plates, but there's likely a stainless steel "scrap" waiting as close as the kitchen's "silverware" drawer. (Ask first if you can have it). :oops:

To retain strength of the rear deck, the size of the port can be quite small, depending on the size of your arm at the elbow.

Good luck!

:)
 
I've had to do this a couple of times, and found that it's really tight with a 4" port. I installed a 6" port, and had to use a knife to cut away some flotation foam to access the underside of the holes. When reattaching fittings I've always use a small piece of marine plywood, stainless bolts and fender washers with a bit of loctite on the threads. May be a bit of overkill, but pretty sure I'll never have to redo...
 
6 inch ports are usually the way to go. And you really don't need to worry about them compromising the strength of the deck. They are very, very "torsionally" rigid. I actually think you could make an entire boat out of inspection ports and it would work!!!

BB
 
Remember, the bridle is the only "handle" back there, and should be respected as a major component. Save the piece you cut out. Bonded with epoxy, it can be used as reinforcement, in repairs, or cut smaller for back-up plates. :cool:

Six-inch ports are definitely "torsionally" rigid. I had two factory-installed ports on a catamaran that wouldn't seat the screw-in covers! :confused: The aft two were 4-inchers—of the pop-in variety—and sealed very well. Fortunately, Sunfish decks are flatter and much more compliant. A 6-inch inspection port installed in the cockpit's forward bulkhead should be bonded to the bulkhead or otherwise reinforced. IMHO.

My primary Sunfish's Holt & Allen (British) 6-inch inspection port is located by the splash guard. It's a "bayonet mount", quick and easy to open—never jams—and one I'd like to keep forever. Alas, I can't find similar Holt & Allen replacements for my other Sunfish . :(
 
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Here's a photograph:

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Question:

Is it possible to run out of one's image allotment, as it was elsewhere?

Fullscreen capture 7192015 110247 AM.bmp.jpg
 
Thank you all for your replies. I have carefully considered the options and will install the inspection port in the centerline just in front of the rudder. From inspecting the guides on this site, that should allow me to access both bridles and the rudder in case I need to make repairs in the future. I will go sailing this weekend, if all goes well, and look forward to sharing picture. (this is the boat I posted on last year that I bought from Craigslist. It was in really tough shape but I've learned a bunch and can't wait to get it on the water!)
 

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