daggerboard trunk
- Thread starter CAN172033
- Start date
drLaser
Member
I've never owned a hull starting with 17****. So, this is all a surprise to me!
As far as I know, a Laser daggerboard trunk is NOT painted.
This is therefore pure speculation, but if your trunk is painted, it may mean one of two things:
- Either you bought the hull used and the previous owner painted it, or
- You bought the hull unused, and the Builder recently saw fit to change the "Construction Manual" unilaterally without ILCA and ISAF consent, on grounds that it is merely a "cosmetic change".
The latter is more likely, since, judging from the "CAN" in your username, you probably have a Vanguard hull, and Vanguard Saiboats have, in the past, made unnanounced changes in their manufacturing methods without letting any of us know.
Their last such change (that I am aware of) was to apply some filling compound inside the daggerboard trunk to "smooth out" the transition between the narrower deck lips around the centerboard well and the wider daggerboard trunk walls. The ILCA Measurer (then, Paul Millson) wrote to drLaser that the filling compound would have been applied only to a depth of a few inches from the deck level, and would be just cosmetic, just a marketing gimmick. However, all brand new boats I had measured had the trunk sides filled uniformly and carefully from top to al the way bottom! A straight edge laid against the trunk surface fit perfectly between the turn of the deck and the opening under the hull.
And this is supposed to be a "One-Design" class!
In retrospect, I would not be surprised if your hull were brand new and came with a painted daggerboard trunk.
As for repairs:
The general approach to deal with flaking paint would be to sand it to remove it completely, and then to apply paint again. But this practice actually leaves a critical measurement on the Laser hull open to abuse by the racer owner! Therefore, I would advise first checking the LEGALITY of the original paint and of any required refinishing procedures from ILCA .
If you do inquire from ILCA, I would aprreciate being included in the "CC" list (copies sent) of your inquiry.
The best person to contact regarding "how to" information would be Fred Schroth (a.k.a. "Keeldude"), the ex-NA Secretary and a long-time Laser/J-24 repairs professional. He is a frequent poster on the official "NA Laser Mailing List" - that other medium which does not get one third of the traffic of this more modern (albeit more cumbersome) alternative.
Shevy Gunter
"Cheat the nursing home, die on your Laser!" (Nils Anderson)
As far as I know, a Laser daggerboard trunk is NOT painted.
This is therefore pure speculation, but if your trunk is painted, it may mean one of two things:
- Either you bought the hull used and the previous owner painted it, or
- You bought the hull unused, and the Builder recently saw fit to change the "Construction Manual" unilaterally without ILCA and ISAF consent, on grounds that it is merely a "cosmetic change".
The latter is more likely, since, judging from the "CAN" in your username, you probably have a Vanguard hull, and Vanguard Saiboats have, in the past, made unnanounced changes in their manufacturing methods without letting any of us know.
Their last such change (that I am aware of) was to apply some filling compound inside the daggerboard trunk to "smooth out" the transition between the narrower deck lips around the centerboard well and the wider daggerboard trunk walls. The ILCA Measurer (then, Paul Millson) wrote to drLaser that the filling compound would have been applied only to a depth of a few inches from the deck level, and would be just cosmetic, just a marketing gimmick. However, all brand new boats I had measured had the trunk sides filled uniformly and carefully from top to al the way bottom! A straight edge laid against the trunk surface fit perfectly between the turn of the deck and the opening under the hull.
And this is supposed to be a "One-Design" class!
In retrospect, I would not be surprised if your hull were brand new and came with a painted daggerboard trunk.
As for repairs:
The general approach to deal with flaking paint would be to sand it to remove it completely, and then to apply paint again. But this practice actually leaves a critical measurement on the Laser hull open to abuse by the racer owner! Therefore, I would advise first checking the LEGALITY of the original paint and of any required refinishing procedures from ILCA .
If you do inquire from ILCA, I would aprreciate being included in the "CC" list (copies sent) of your inquiry.
The best person to contact regarding "how to" information would be Fred Schroth (a.k.a. "Keeldude"), the ex-NA Secretary and a long-time Laser/J-24 repairs professional. He is a frequent poster on the official "NA Laser Mailing List" - that other medium which does not get one third of the traffic of this more modern (albeit more cumbersome) alternative.
Shevy Gunter
"Cheat the nursing home, die on your Laser!" (Nils Anderson)
drLaser
Member
Not directly relevant, but I contacted Performance Sailcraft Europe. Tim Coventry, Managing Director of PSE, kindly noted that their daggerboard trunks are never painted.
The inside of their centreboard boxes are finished in a grey gel coat for the past 5 years. Prior to that, clear gelcoat was used.
When you think about it (if I remember correctly what I once learned from my Guru), the trunk is built around a male trunk mould. (Imagine a 2" x 4" block screwed to the top of the mould, too.) First, gelcoat is sprayed around the assembly. Then, that gelocat is covered with layer of heavy fiberglass mat. Then, the whole assembly is mounted to the center of a female hull mold (bolted from the 2x4 at the top). Finally, gelcoat is sprayed in the mold, and then the hull is laid up. So, it really is unlikely that the inside of the trunk is painted by the original Builder during the manufacturing of the hull.
I'm not privy to whether Vanguard does this as post lay-up cosmetic trim work. Ask them.
Shevy
The inside of their centreboard boxes are finished in a grey gel coat for the past 5 years. Prior to that, clear gelcoat was used.
When you think about it (if I remember correctly what I once learned from my Guru), the trunk is built around a male trunk mould. (Imagine a 2" x 4" block screwed to the top of the mould, too.) First, gelcoat is sprayed around the assembly. Then, that gelocat is covered with layer of heavy fiberglass mat. Then, the whole assembly is mounted to the center of a female hull mold (bolted from the 2x4 at the top). Finally, gelcoat is sprayed in the mold, and then the hull is laid up. So, it really is unlikely that the inside of the trunk is painted by the original Builder during the manufacturing of the hull.
I'm not privy to whether Vanguard does this as post lay-up cosmetic trim work. Ask them.
Shevy
ya, sorry... It's the grey gelcoat (just checked) that's peeling off, this worries me since the water can get in between the glass and paint.
I thought about what you said to re-paint it, I think it's easier said than done!
I'm am just going to start chipping off what i can and throw some epoxy there and try and cover it up as best as i can.
Those are my abilities and i'm going to try that.
I thought about what you said to re-paint it, I think it's easier said than done!
I'm am just going to start chipping off what i can and throw some epoxy there and try and cover it up as best as i can.
Those are my abilities and i'm going to try that.
drLaser
Member
> ya, sorry... It's the grey gelcoat
Cause panic and commotion first!
Then change your testimony?
You terrorist
Yes. Use WEST SYSTEM epoxy. Use 80 grit sandpaper to remove and smooth out all delaminated gelcoat, down to the glass mat if necessary. Wash with acetone, wipe with damp cloth, let dry, and then start building it up w/ hardened resin applied with a stiff "L" shaped brush.
If deep, it may take multiple applications, with 24 hours curing time in between. Do one side at a time, with hull resting along the side-deck rail. See drLaser for general tips on how to work with epoxy resin, or just consult a professional handbook.
You will then need some serious sanding with up to 600 grit...
SG
Cause panic and commotion first!
Then change your testimony?
You terrorist
Yes. Use WEST SYSTEM epoxy. Use 80 grit sandpaper to remove and smooth out all delaminated gelcoat, down to the glass mat if necessary. Wash with acetone, wipe with damp cloth, let dry, and then start building it up w/ hardened resin applied with a stiff "L" shaped brush.
If deep, it may take multiple applications, with 24 hours curing time in between. Do one side at a time, with hull resting along the side-deck rail. See drLaser for general tips on how to work with epoxy resin, or just consult a professional handbook.
You will then need some serious sanding with up to 600 grit...
SG